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History Phnom Penh

Sisowath Quay

A blend of French-styled buildings and local Khmer-styled architecture, with tourist traps right next to locals going on with their lives, the walk along the vibrant Sisowath Quay was an enjoyable one.

 

Phnom Penh, Cambodia Part I (21-23 December 2013)
Day 1: Sisowath Quay aka Riverside walk

Credits: Oliver Wong
By the Tonle Sap River. Credits: Oliver Wong

 

We read that December is one of the best months to travel in Cambodia and this was apparent once we were greeted with the cool 23°C weather outside Phnom Penh International Airport. A taxi ride to the city costs a flat rate of USD9 and was easily hired over the airport counter which we took to our hotel.

 

Our accommodation for the next two nights was at Golden House International Hotel (USD40/night/2 pax). It was highly recommended and quite true to its photos on agoda, conveniently located just a few steps from the river at Sisowath Quay and main bar areas. The bars on our street were less ‘proper’ of sorts tho, but we had no issue with that as it was just a few steps before we reached the river bank.

We started our walk by Sisowath Quay from Royal Palace. From there to the Night Market is about 1.6km. If you have extra time, Wat Phnom is just a few hundred metres down the river
We started our walk by Sisowath Quay from Royal Palace. From there to the Night Market is about 1.6km. If you have extra time, Wat Phnom is just a few hundred metres down the river

 

By the time we settled down in our hotel and took a Tuktuk to the Royal Palace, it was about 4.30pm. It was just a 10min walk down the river but we took our 1USD tuktuk as we were rushing for time. We were too late to get in anyway but the sheer majesty and opulence of the palace from outside was enough to impress us. With the cool weather and spacious square of lush green lawns and flocking pigeons, it was almost reminiscent of Europe. Although the wealth and grandeur of the palace proved to be a stark contrast to most parts of the city. If you walked down the river from here, you would notice many similar juxtapositions across the city.

Vibrant Square in front of the palace
The vibrant Royal Palace Park in front of the palace

 

View from Rooftop Bar, Le Moon

 

We had a nice stroll down Sisowath Quay as we tried to identify each of the national flags planted by the river bank. We were greeted with different groups of locals kicking around soccer balls and chaptehs by the river – both children and adults alike. Just across the street are several French-styled hotels fronted with street food peddlers, living in harmony with modernly decorated restaurants and pubs.

On the way - stumbled upon a crowded political rally where the party was on stage for its song and dance (and speech)
On the way – stumbled upon a crowded political rally where the party was on stage for its song and dance (and speech)

 

We eventually found ourselves at the Night Market (Phsa Reatrey) where you will find Cambodian silk scarves, trinklets, traditional or modern wear and – most delightfully – local street food. In the middle of the many food stalls is a huge space of numerous mats – complete with individual tissue boxes and baskets of sauces – laid out side by side for patrons to eat their food, picnic-style. A total of USD15 for 4pax, dinner consisted of grilled prawns, squid, chicken/lamb kebab, stingray (skinny one tho), fried noodles, noodle soup, sugarcane juice and for desserts, some coconut kuehs + fried milk.

Interesting open dining concept at the night market
Interesting open dining concept at the night market

 

some of our dishes
our grilled dinner in styrofoam packages

 

our skinny but very well marinated grilled stingray
our skinny but very well marinated grilled stingray

 

Whether you want a nice, relaxing beer (rooftop bar Le Moon overlooking the river had great ambience for USD4 a beer pint) or some clubmix dancing, there’s plenty of nightlife on Sisowath Quay. And to rest your tired feet, the street is filled with massage parlours – we had a 1hr full body for USD6 🙂

 

Day 2: Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum + ATV tour at The Killing Fields of Choeung Ek

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